This isnt arfcom, your rifle wont form a critical mass and detonate with the intensity of a thousand suns if you dont use a torque wrench, and the proper $500/gram grease for your threads. 50-90 is quite a large range, and I'd say its perfectly reasonable to think someone couldnt torque a bolt to 70 ft-lb +/- 20 by hand w/o a torque wrench. While it definitely helps to know when you got to the 50 ft-lbs (thought my yhm instructions said 40, but cant remember offhand) I dont see it as being 100% needed *IF* you are familiar with torquing bolts down in other applications (automotive comes to mind) Since you must line up the gas tube hole anyway. If you can change the oil in your car, you can install the free-float yourself (I've done three). #HOW TO INSTALL FREE FLOAT RAIL AR15 HOW TO#Snap-ring pliers, or two pin punches and a pencil, or a Dremel cutter to remove the delta ringĪR15.com has a great "do it yourself" forum that explains how to remove your barrel and install different makes of free floats. I did that once, but heard it could be bad for the receiver.)ĪR15 wrench (~$30 from Brownells, Bravo Company, Midway USA, DPMS, etc) (you can also get by with two small pieces wood instead of a block. Receiver block (~$40 from Bravo Company USA, Midway USA, Brownells, DPMS,etc) Since I sank the money into the free float, I keep them, but I probably wouldn't do it again. I attended a 3-day carbine class with my old Yankee Hill non-float rails and did fine. I have free floats on my carbine uppers, but only because I needed to extend my top rail at the time. I hear free-floats can help cool the carbine barrel by acting as a heat-sink, but if you're not shooting 800 rounds/day I don't know if it is worth it. Why are you free floating? If this is for a carbine, a free float won't really "get" you a lot compared to floating a "precision"-type upper.
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